France's parliament has approved legislation targeting ultra-fast-fashion platforms including Shein, Temu and AliExpress with new product fees and advertising restrictions, marking the country's most significant effort yet to curb the environmental impact of low-cost online fashion before the law receives final presidential approval.

The revised bill, passed by the Senate on Monday after more than two years of parliamentary debate, introduces penalties of between €0.25 and €6 per product this year, rising to as much as €10 by 2030.

It also bans advertising by ultra-fast-fashion companies, including promotions by online influencers, while requiring affected businesses to encourage clothing reuse and repair.

The legislation has been narrowed from earlier proposals to focus on online-first ultra-fast-fashion retailers, excluding European brands such as Zara and H&M.

French small enterprises minister Serge Papin said the legislation was intended to address wider economic and environmental concerns rather than clothing alone. "What is at stake today is not just clothes, but the societal model we want to defend," he said before the vote, adding that the targeted industry "floods our markets with disposable fashion, with clothes worn only a few weeks before being thrown away".

Shein questioned whether parts of the legislation comply with European law. A company spokesperson said some measures "appear to retain inconsistencies with the applicable European framework governing digital services and e-commerce", adding that the company would continue reviewing the legislation once the final regulatory texts are published.

Lawmakers backing the bill acknowledged that the final version is less ambitious than the original proposal. Anne-Cécile Violland, the centre-right member of parliament who introduced the legislation, told AFP: "We're coming down very hard on Shein, and that's the first step," arguing that lawmakers needed legislation that could be implemented quickly.

Criticism has nevertheless come from environmental campaigners and some opposition lawmakers, who argue the legislation gives European fast-fashion retailers favourable treatment. France 24 reported that Green Party lawmaker Charles Fournier said the original proposal had been "considerably scaled back", while the Stop Fast Fashion coalition described the final text as a significantly weakened version of the initial bill.

The legislation must now be promulgated by President Emmanuel Macron before it can take effect. The European Commission has previously raised questions over whether the advertising restrictions comply with EU law, meaning elements of the legislation could still face legal scrutiny.

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